Not knowing what to expect, my spouse Sandy and I first visited Cape Cod, Massachusetts, in 1998. We enjoyed the experience enough to return one year later. That second sojourn sealed the deal, and we have vacationed there just about every year since then. We can’t get enough of the Cape’s expansive areas of natural beauty, its arts scene, its wide choice of restaurants, its delightful old villages, and the healthy vibes that permeate the air. By now we’ve spent, I estimate, more than one year’s-worth of days on this 65-mile-long island. We think of it as our second home and in some ways prefer it to our primary home in the suburbs of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. We’d possibly move there for keeps if healthcare were as good, or almost as good, on Cape Cod as it is in Greater Philadelphia. But it isn’t.
Last month Sandy and I were Cape-side for 11 days, in a rented house in the township of Orleans. As usual, we were far more active than we are back home in the burbs, devoting about eight hours each day to this, that and the other things. Such as: beach walks; a forest walk; visits to museums and art galleries; moviegoing; theatergoing; chowing-down in restaurants; shopping in and wandering around villages. We played mini golf too, and flew our tattered kite on a stretch of sands beside the Atlantic Ocean. I like playing with our kite, even when the f*cker refuses to stay up in the air for more than two or three minutes at a time, which was the case that day.
One section of Cape Cod always has intrigued me more than any other: the desert on the ocean side of Provincetown and neighboring Truro, the townships comprising the Cape’s farthest reaches. It’s hard to believe that this rugged territory is within walking distance of Provincetown’s famed and cool-as-can-be village. The Cape is full of surprises.
I’d hiked in the wonderland any number of times before, including last year. No way was I not going to explore it again. Not in the mood to risk getting lost in desert sections I was unfamiliar with, I decided to walk to the Atlantic Ocean, sticking to the established sand trail that leads there. (Sandy didn’t join me. She has been in dunesland only once. She found the trek to be too physically demanding, and has no plans to revisit this desert.)
The access to the trail in question is via a wooded area that abuts Snail Road, in Provincetown. A ridiculously steep dune partly lies within this wood, and up it one must go in order to reach open sands. In the past I’d had little trouble ascending the dune. Last month, however, I began to huff and puff well before reaching its crest, my thigh and calf muscles not performing as well as I’d expected. What can you say? I was four days shy of my 77th birthday. I sure as shit am not what I used to be, and apparently wasn’t even what I’d been one year prior.
Anyway, after conquering dune number one, I set off for the ocean, about one mile away. The trail, easy to follow because of thousands of footprints in the sands, goes up and down dune upon dune before reaching level ground, after which dunes emerge again. Some of those sand hills are incredibly wide and tall. They’d fit right in on the Moon.
I’ve never been less than awestruck in the Cape desert. This time was no exception. It’s so beautiful out there, so unlike anywhere else on Cape Cod. Amazingly, a tiny number of people live in this demanding land, most of them in shacks, the rest in very modest houses. The abodes have no running water, of course. Maybe some have electric generators . . . I don’t know. In any event, it’s not your average person who chooses to reside in such an environment. I wouldn’t. I like my comforts too much.
Well, eventually I made it to the ocean. Almost to the ocean, that is, as I saw no path leading from my sand-cliff perch to the beach and waters below. Some years ago I’d walked onto the beach easily. Not sure why access is difficult now. I suppose that powerful storms have shifted the sands around, creating barriers. Mother Nature has the last say.
My tank dangerously low on gas, I eventually made my way back to Snail Road, stopping every few minutes to drink some water. It’s a good thing I’d had the sense to bring water with me. Otherwise, I might have collapsed somewhere in the lunar-like landscape and drifted off into eternal sleep. If that had happened, the WordPress gods would have been very disappointed, for they’d recently honored me with their Your Articles Kind Of Suck, But We’ll Let That Slide award. What’s more, I now wouldn’t be looking forward to my next vacation on Cape Cod. Yes indeed, it’s my kind of place.
Yeah, Another Blogger 
I agree. Cape Cod is amazingly diverse. Your pictures are beautiful, Neil. I would want to go every year, too!
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Hi. My wife and I have vacationed there 26 or so times, and we haven’t tired of it yet.
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Thanks for sharing scenes from your walk, Neil. It does look like a strange and beautiful place.
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To me, it’s the most dramatic section of Cape Cod.
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I loved the humor in this and the detail you supplied on the way to scenic spots, esp that climb up that mammoth sand hill. We’re about the same age, Neil, and I certainly would have found it hard going. but overall you and Sandy had a good time. Enjoyed the photos too —
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I need to try and get back into better shape!
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We once got as far as Hyannis Port. You make me wish we had taken more time when we had the chance!
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Hi Geoff. Cape Cod is physically large. There’s a whole lot to see and do.
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Great to hear you have had time in the place which is so special to you, a big change and rest from the city and, obviously, a place to get a good deal of pleasant exercise which becomes more and more important as we add to our years over the 70. I’ve walked in smaller sand dune systems and have, at times, become hopelessly lost and it is, as you say, a very testing area in which to walk. Glad to read you have had a good break.
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Hey there, Paddy. I’d like to explore parts of dunesland I haven’t been in. But I wouldn’t mind having a guide with me, because getting lost out there would be bad news.
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Thank goodness you made it back!
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You’re not kidding. I need to get into better shape.
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Thank you, Neil, for a lovely post about the beautiful place with your wonderful photos.
Joanna
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Thanks very much, Joanna. Appreciated.
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I find that as well as enjoying being with you here in this place you obviously love, you’ve given me an idea. I was sorting through the junk in my garage recently and came across my son’s old kite. It was always a good flier. You know what I’m going to do?
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You’ll have a great time, (but don’t let the kite get caught in a tree!)
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It sounds a wonderful place to explore, Neil…but I’m older than you (much) so have to pay homage to Mother Nature’s rules, energy-wise. That’s one of the hardest to obey as I was a keen walker when younger .I’m so glad we travelled a fair amount when able as, hub and I, have some wonderful memories…Keep plodding on…Upwards and onwards. (Have you tried Spain yet? It has the most varied scenery and, weatherwise – in Playa Flamenca especially, it’s spot on. ) x
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Hi Joy. I haven’t been to Spain. But I’d like to go there one of these days.
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Cape Cod has been on my bucket list for several years. Your story, elevates it higher in rank. The Dunes sound amazing.
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Hi. That dunes/desert section of the Cape is pretty mind-blowing. I’m always amazed when I see it or trek through it.
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Wow, it’s gorgeous. Kudos to you for still being able to make the trek.
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Without water, I’d have been in big trouble.
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Your photos are so beautiful and so is Cape Cod – it is such a wonderful destination for anyone looking to experience New England beauty and charm. I’ve never been to Cape Cod, but from what I’ve heard and read from other bloggers and travellers who visited this part of the world – the captivating beauty of Cape Cod is unmatched! Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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Howdy, Aiva. Cape Cod has so many beautiful areas. The ocean shoreline is gorgeous. Ditto for the Cape Cod Bay shoreline. And many towns are charming. Lots of good restaurants all over the place, too. I’m a big fan of Cape Cod!
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I have a feeling that I’d be too🥰🥰
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Those beautiful dunes make it worth the pain and effort! Great photos, as well.
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Hi, Richard. I’ve been in dunesland many times. I hope to wander around there again next year.
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Wow, Cape Cod sounds and looks spectacular. The Cape desert is not something I would’ve ever thought of, and I love the sea views over the Atlantic. Thanks for sharing! 😄🌊
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That steep sand hill looks tough, though! I’d need to do a bit of training first before managing that one!
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There’s a nice variety of landscapes and seascapes on Cape Cod. Cute villages too, and small theater companies, and lots of art galleries. It’s pretty great.
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I have never been, but would like to experience it. I would never have guessed that a desert environment could be found abutting the Atlantic Ocean!
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I know. I still find it hard to believe. But there it is!
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Wow, I’ve never been to Cape Cod, Neil, but the similarities to where I live are incredible, especially the sand dunes and beaches. 😊☀️
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Hi. I forget where you live. Is it Newfoundland?
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Yes, on the northeast coast of the island. New Wes Valley to be exact. We actually live on Sandy Beach Avenue. 😁
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Beautiful photos! Brought back memories of the many, many times l have been visiting…25 plus years. Besides everything you mentioned about the Cape l also miss the lobster rolls.
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We didn’t have lobster rolls during the trip, unfortunately. By the way, they’ve become very expensive. $35 is a common price for one of them.
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WOW!
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You always renew my dream of living on the Cape Neil, every time you write. Sadly it will probably remain a dream but I thank you for trying 🙂
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You’re welcome!
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Friggin kites. 😒
Thanks so much for posting this, Neil. After this hellweek reading your post has given me a good start this morning 👍
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Kites are temperamental!
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Also: I had no idea folks lived in these shacks. Now I have to look more into that! 🧐
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Found this. Fascinating! https://newenglandhistoricalsociety.com/dune-shacks/
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The dune shacks have fascinated me for many years. The whole history of them is interesting.
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I tried posting a comment but it didn’t let me because I wouldn’t sign in.
What I said was…
Beautiful photos. It make take longer to get some places as we age, but we still get there. Keep on scaling new heights.
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Yeah, we keep on keepin’ on as best we can.
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What a fun time, but really, that hill is beyond steep!
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There are dunes not terribly far from there that are MUCH steeper.
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I hope you’re keep a list of places to visit on the Cape! I do hope to get back there someday.
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Hi. If you ever plan to go there, get in touch with me and I’ll give you some suggestions and recommendations.
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Those desert shacks may be a good place to spend the next four years.
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Sad but true.
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Cape Cod is such a great place to visit. That yearly infusion of salt air and your dune trekking help keep you young!
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I hope so. By the way, who is this? You’re listed as Anonymous.
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Congratulations on conquering that walk, despite the shifting sands and your own shifting abilities! It’s so hard to walk on sand, let alone a steep sandy hill. And good on you for always having water with you; it seems like everyone our age (I’m not all that far behind you) is dehydrated! Your photos and text are, as always, lovely.
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I can make stupid decisions. But, bringing water with me wasn’t one of them.
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You know how much I enjoy your “walks”
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CB, you would absolutely love the Cape Cod desert section.
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I’m starting to think it’s a good thing that we can’t get to all the parts of nature. I enjoyed looking at these photos.
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Hi Kathy. It’s a pretty tough environment in that desert area. But it’s a lot of fun to explore it (as long as you don’t get lost).
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That’s a wonderful looking area…..very glad you took it easy getting there and back though….
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I survived!
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What an awesome place! My calf muscles began aching just looking at the first sand hill, but I’m glad you took the hit for us and ventured on. Hope you treated yourselves to a particularly nice restaurant as a reward!
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Hi. After my trek, we drove into Provincetown village. Went to the art museum there. And after that we had dinner in a good Italian restaurant.
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Perfect!
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A great post. It does sound a super place to visit and go dune walking, although I cam understand those winds of change, shifting the dunes and making the hike that little bit harder.
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Hi. Is this Vivienne? Storms have caused all kinds of changes to the Cape’s Atlantic Ocean coastline.
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I remember doing this walk in the early 90s. We visited Provincetown again a few years later, and not since. Sadly, I think the US is off my visiting agenda for many years to come.
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There are an unfortunate number of fools and fascists in the USA. They voted for Trump.
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😢
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Neil, your words and photos make Cape Cod sound magical.
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Hi, and thank you very much. Is this Lynne? — you’re listed as Anonymous.
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Wow. I’ve never been there, but I can practically feel the peace.
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Hi Betsy. Cape Cod seems peaceful in general, not just in certain areas. That’s another reason why my wife and I enjoy being there.
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That trail sounded demanding but beholding the beauty of the dunes and the desert well worth it.
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Hi there. Is this Jan? — you’re listed as Anonymous. Yeah, I love walking around that section of Cape Cod. It’s kind of otherworldly.
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Congratulations on winning that elusive YAKOSBWLTS! Personally, I don’t think your stuff sucks, but I’m not a critic, just a guy who enjoys your writing!
Glad you survived to write another day!
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I’m glad I survived too!
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The desert views were definitely worth all your physical effort 😀
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It’s magnificent out there.
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Hi! Cape Cod looks like a very beautiful place. I had no idea there was a desert aspect to it. I can see why you and Sandy enjoy spending so much time there.
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The Cape has a lot going for it. It’s the only place we’ve ever wanted to visit time and again. By the way, I don’t know who this is — your comments are posted as being from Anonymous.
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Hi! This is Suzanne from Ellie894. I’m sorry for my late reply. I didn’t receive notice of your reply.
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Hi there, Suzanne. I just took a look at your original comments — they are listed as being from Anonymous. That happened, I guess, because you weren’t signed into WordPress when you posted the comments. Because of that, my reply didn’t reach you. Anyway, thanks for getting back in touch with me. Take care. Neil
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I didn’t know about the desert area of Cape Cod. Very interesting.
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I bet there are people living on Cape Cod who barely know about the dunes/desert section.
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A beautiful part of the World. You are very lucky. Mel
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Hi Mel. Cape Cod definitely resonates with me and with my wife.
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and why wouldn’t it? The beauty and open spaces would be very good for the soul. Enjoy
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What an interesting place Cake Cod seems to be! Glad you survived the walk, we would have missed you 😃
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Hi, and thanks. I never get tired of walking on Cape Cod’s eastern coastline, which is beach bordered by the Atlantic Ocean. That beach goes on forever, so you can walk for miles and miles while looking at the waters. Really spectacular.
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Thank you for your wonderful stories about Cape Cod. But care of yourself. We are what you may name ‘a mature age´. Happy Birthday
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Age sneaks up on us. Time truly does fly.
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Well written and the photos made it interesting too.
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Hello, and thank you. Who is this, by the way? — You’re listed as Anonymous.
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If you had died on the path, at least you would have died happy. But I’m glad that you didn’t! 🙂
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Ditto!
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This is so interesting to me. Here, the general rule (and often the strongly enforced rule) is to stay off the dunes. They’re fairly fragile, and keeping them in good shape is a high priority. Besides, rattlesnakes love our dunes: another good reason to stay away. But it seems as though these Cape Cod dunes are much larger and generally more expansive.
That path would be a tough one. Walking in loose sand isn’t easy on the level, but climbing through loose sand would be something. I’m glad you did it, and I’m really glad you brought back these glorious photos for us.
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Morning. In some of the other parts of Cape Cod, there are signs telling people to stay off the dunes. But that’s not the case in the section I wrote about.
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That’s great, that you had the chance to explore an area like that.
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I’ve also enjoyed plodding thru the dunes at that location, even pausing here & there for the tasty cranberries that were in season. Thanks for bringing them back again.
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Hi. Have you been there in recent years?
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You make me want to visit Cape Cod! And good for you for climbing up those dunes…not sure I would have had the stamina!
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Hi Ann. Cape Cod has a lot going for it. I think you’d enjoy the Cape.
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I think one of the hardest things on earth is walking through sand, so climbing through sand…..? Don’t be so hard on yourself. It’s like going upstairs. I’ve been in peak condition and still huffed and puffed going upstairs. Something about the angle and those movements!
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Right, the sand gives way under your feet on dunes, so climbing isn’t all that easy. Who is this, by the way? Your comments are listed as being from Anonymous.
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A lovely callback to a warmer time, my friend, thank you! I’m not a summer person, but the gloomy, wet November is not my cup of tea either. x
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Hello there, Jean. There was an unexpected bonus to the vacation: Every day was rain-free.
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