Not knowing what to expect, my spouse Sandy and I first visited Cape Cod, Massachusetts, in 1998. We enjoyed the experience enough to return one year later. That second sojourn sealed the deal, and we have vacationed there just about every year since then. We can’t get enough of the Cape’s expansive areas of natural beauty, its arts scene, its wide choice of restaurants, its delightful old villages, and the healthy vibes that permeate the air. By now we’ve spent, I estimate, more than one year’s-worth of days on this 65-mile-long island. We think of it as our second home and in some ways prefer it to our primary home in the suburbs of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. We’d possibly move there for keeps if healthcare were as good, or almost as good, on Cape Cod as it is in Greater Philadelphia. But it isn’t.
Last month Sandy and I were Cape-side for 11 days, in a rented house in the township of Orleans. As usual, we were far more active than we are back home in the burbs, devoting about eight hours each day to this, that and the other things. Such as: beach walks; a forest walk; visits to museums and art galleries; moviegoing; theatergoing; chowing-down in restaurants; shopping in and wandering around villages. We played mini golf too, and flew our tattered kite on a stretch of sands beside the Atlantic Ocean. I like playing with our kite, even when the f*cker refuses to stay up in the air for more than two or three minutes at a time, which was the case that day.
One section of Cape Cod always has intrigued me more than any other: the desert on the ocean side of Provincetown and neighboring Truro, the townships comprising the Cape’s farthest reaches. It’s hard to believe that this rugged territory is within walking distance of Provincetown’s famed and cool-as-can-be village. The Cape is full of surprises.
I’d hiked in the wonderland any number of times before, including last year. No way was I not going to explore it again. Not in the mood to risk getting lost in desert sections I was unfamiliar with, I decided to walk to the Atlantic Ocean, sticking to the established sand trail that leads there. (Sandy didn’t join me. She has been in dunesland only once. She found the trek to be too physically demanding, and has no plans to revisit this desert.)
The access to the trail in question is via a wooded area that abuts Snail Road, in Provincetown. A ridiculously steep dune partly lies within this wood, and up it one must go in order to reach open sands. In the past I’d had little trouble ascending the dune. Last month, however, I began to huff and puff well before reaching its crest, my thigh and calf muscles not performing as well as I’d expected. What can you say? I was four days shy of my 77th birthday. I sure as shit am not what I used to be, and apparently wasn’t even what I’d been one year prior.
Anyway, after conquering dune number one, I set off for the ocean, about one mile away. The trail, easy to follow because of thousands of footprints in the sands, goes up and down dune upon dune before reaching level ground, after which dunes emerge again. Some of those sand hills are incredibly wide and tall. They’d fit right in on the Moon.
I’ve never been less than awestruck in the Cape desert. This time was no exception. It’s so beautiful out there, so unlike anywhere else on Cape Cod. Amazingly, a tiny number of people live in this demanding land, most of them in shacks, the rest in very modest houses. The abodes have no running water, of course. Maybe some have electric generators . . . I don’t know. In any event, it’s not your average person who chooses to reside in such an environment. I wouldn’t. I like my comforts too much.
Well, eventually I made it to the ocean. Almost to the ocean, that is, as I saw no path leading from my sand-cliff perch to the beach and waters below. Some years ago I’d walked onto the beach easily. Not sure why access is difficult now. I suppose that powerful storms have shifted the sands around, creating barriers. Mother Nature has the last say.
My tank dangerously low on gas, I eventually made my way back to Snail Road, stopping every few minutes to drink some water. It’s a good thing I’d had the sense to bring water with me. Otherwise, I might have collapsed somewhere in the lunar-like landscape and drifted off into eternal sleep. If that had happened, the WordPress gods would have been very disappointed, for they’d recently honored me with their Your Articles Kind Of Suck, But We’ll Let That Slide award. What’s more, I now wouldn’t be looking forward to my next vacation on Cape Cod. Yes indeed, it’s my kind of place.
Yeah, Another Blogger 
Thanks for the great tour. Cape Cod is one of those places that has always attracted me – I’ve never been there but would love to go!
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It’s a wonderful place. Beautiful, laid-back and pretty artsy.
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Hi Neil – the chamber of commerce should definitely put you on the payroll. You do a wonderful job describing what’s interesting and great about this place. And once you’re the spokesperson, maybe get them to update the name, too, cod is my least favorite fish, how about “Wham! Wampanoag Land.”
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The name you came up with is catchy. But it has too many syllables!
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You’re right, back to the drawing board
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I’m glad you are well after your escapade. Water is good. Your love of Cape Cod shines through in this post. What a beautiful place. Thanks for taking us along.
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Hello there. Water truly saved the day.
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What a beautiful place to vacation!
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We feel very fortunate to have “discovered” Cape Cod all those years ago. We love being there.
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Neil, wow! Thank you for sharing the beautiful dramatic dunes of Cape Cod. Walking on sand be tricky at the best of times, these dunes look relentless but worth the views! I’m in awe of people actually living out there.
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I’m glad that this dunes-y, desert area is on Cape Cod. I love exploring it. Take care, Annika. Thanks for stopping by.
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I’ve never stayed on Cape Cod but through your eyes it’s a tremendous place, Neil.
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Hi. Years ago it never occurred to Sandy and me that one day we might find a place we would want to return to time and again. But it happened, much to our surprise.
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Wow, a year! I never thought about thinking about visiting a place in terms like that. I wonder how many years I’ve spent visiting someplace…
Anyway, heathcare isn’t as good on Cape Cod because it’s less available? There aren’t as many hospitals, doctors, and clinics in the immediate area? That’s what I’m guessing.
I spend the summers in the Sleeping Bear region of Michigan, and, although it’s hard to believe, it has that same, dessert landscape right along side an ocean of fresh water. It’s absolutely stunning, so I know exactly why you love the cape. I am going to retire there. The plans are already in motion. Fortunately, there is decent healthcare in the area, but I’m nonetheless planning to split my heathcare between there and the doctors I’ve built relationships with here in Chicago.
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Hi Jeff. Right, there aren’t a whole lot of generalists or specialists on Cape Cod. Where I live (the Philly region), there are loads of doctors and many hospitals.
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Hey Neil, you ARE some kind of glutton for punishment. (Just kidding!) Anyway, thanks for the “tour.” I used to go to the Cape when I lived in Boston back in the early-mid 1980s, but it was Hyannis and environs, nothing with sand “mountains.” I can’t say how much climate change has altered the coast there (strangely, I’ve never seen any stories about it though I live in MA), but I will say that if you can scamper up and down those steep roads of sand, you just might be on the list to live forever!
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My scampering isn’t what it used to be. I need to try and get into better shape.
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Yeah, staying “loose” is vital. One of the things that really helps me is gardening. Lots of bending, squatting–keeps one agile. I’m celebrating today because the garden is all prepped for winter and I just finished raking the last of 56 bags of leaves!!!
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Ooooooh, yes. Thanks for the tour. That area is somewhere I’ve always wanted to go.
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Greetings. The dunes/desert section is so unlikely. But, it’s there. And it’s great. Who is this, by the way? You’re listed as Anonymous.
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As you know, I’m a big fan of Cape Cod and have done some exploring. But I’m not familiar with this desert-y area. I’ll have to look for that trail if (when!) I get back there. It sounds fascinating. Glad you made it back to tell the tale! I do remember reading essays about shacks on the dunes, inhabited seasonally for the most part.
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Amazingly, the dunes/desert area is a pretty short distance from the village section of Provincetown. But it’s a whole other world compared to the village.
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I’ve always been curious about Cape Cod, but have never been anywhere near it. I bet there are lots of cool places in that part of the country worth a visit.
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Definitely. For decades I’ve wanted to re-visit the Berkshire Mountains section of Massachusetts, for instance. One of these days!
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Cape Cod sounds lovely and my kind of place. I love the very English names. Not sure if you know but there’s a Truro in Cornwall.
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Hi. I’d like to visit Truro, Cornwall!
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Cornwall is one of my favourite counties in the UK. So much pirate and witch history, which suits me fine being an ex-pirate myself! 😉
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I haven’t been to the Cape, but anyplace near water is a winning trip, peaceful/relaxing, perfect.
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I agree. Beautiful waters calm us down.
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What an award! I loved reading about your love for Cape Cod but we followers didn’t get to learn about the blogging award til the end (which again demonstrates your sense of humor and tickled mine). I visited Cape Cod more when we didn’t live in NE. The traffic to get there (and congestion once there) has turned many almost-locals off. Good friends lived on the Cape for 35 years and recently moved to NH cause of increase in visitors during the summer. So I think you and your wife made a good decision. The Cape is your special place … for those special times you get there.
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Hi. Right, we always go in an off-season, usually autumn. The human and vehicular congestion in summer would drive us crazy!
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Awesome place and post! I have only visited that area once while on a John Barclay/Jeff Lovinger photo workshop. I had met and befriended Jeff a few years previous when photographing in Acadia so it was especially nice to see him again. He has a gallery and guest house in Provincetown. He told a funny anecdote … It is said that the pilgrims landed in Provincetown first but it was too gay for them so they went on to Plymouth Rock.
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Hi. I wonder if I’ve ever been in his gallery. I probably have. I’ve done a lot of gallery-hopping in PTown.
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I looked it up and as I thought he closed the Lovinger Gallery a couple years ago. He also has a Guest House in Ptown.
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Looks beautiful, I would love to go to Cape Cod and enjoy some fresh seafood. I have a project that has taken all my downtime, and now it’s time to get a roll off dumpster rental Naples, FL and then, my wife and I can pick anywhere stateside and go visit. Cape Cod sounds like a top 3 destination in my eyes. Way to conquer that dune!
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The way you describe it I feel like I’m there enjoying it too. Sounds like a lovely place to just be.
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Hi, Michele. My blood pressure drops by 20% when I’m on Cape Cod!
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Very evocative post, Neil. But sensible to take water with you. I don’t know if you heard over there of a writer and broadcaster called Michael Mosely, who was in his mid-sixties, who died a few months ago walking in Greece?
It sounds like a beautiful place – US is definitely on my bucket list, just maybe not for the next four years….
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I hadn’t heard of Michael Mosely before. I took a look at online news about him. It took four days to find his body. Everyone says he was a very terrific person.
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He was – and a great proponent of a healthy diet. Just goes to show – we’re all in Sniper’s Alley…
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Thank goodness you had the wherewithal to carry water, survive the Cape Cod Desert, and live to tell the tale. 😊
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I’m glad I’m still above ground!
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So am I. 😊👍
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I’ve always dreamed of visiting Cape Cod! I never knew the sand dunes were called a desert. The entire place sounds wonderful. I can almost hear the seagulls!
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Hello there. Cape Cod has a lot of variety: Beautiful, unspoiled natural areas. Old-fashioned, yet hip, villages. Good food. A good arts scene. If you were to visit the Cape, I bet you’d like it.
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I don’t think the two of you could survive a snow hike! 😁
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Beautiful photos❤️
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Thanks very much.
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