A Great Day In Philadelphia

Mid-morning of the final Saturday of July 2026 found me seated upon my living room sofa, my bony ass as comfortable as can be. As I absent-mindedly stroked the many dozens of wrinkles populating my face, I had a feeling that the plans my wife Sandy and I had made for later in the day would work out most enjoyably. They damn well did, in fact, and then some, quietly stunning me. I had no intentions of writing about any of the proceedings, though, till Sandy and I arrived home late that night. As we pulled into the driveway of our suburban abode, Sandy pointed out the nearly full moon low in the sky. That excellent sight was a fitting coda to the lovely hours we’d just spent in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA. In fact, it was more than that. It was a celestial message subtly suggesting I gather my thoughts and express them in an essay.

On the Saturday in question, after parking our car at a suburban train station a few miles from our home, Sandy and I boarded a train that deposited us in a downtown Philadelphia station at about 3:00 PM. Our destination was The Fabric Workshop And Museum, a short walk away. FWM is a hell of a fine place. It is an exhibition space for contemporary artworks and also a hands-on educational institution for established and non-established artists. FWM’s exhibitions always have been off the beaten path for many locals and tourists, but attendance at the shows has been increasing. Where once we’d have had FWM’s galleries pretty much all to ourselves, the other day we encountered, I’d estimate, 30 to 40 folks. I was very glad to see that.

Quilts by Jesse Krimes (Fabric Workshop And Museum)
Quilts by Jesse Krimes (Fabric Workshop And Museum)

What was on view? First up was an exhibit of quilts by Jesse Krimes. Man, his works swept me away right away. Constructed from donated clothes of current and former incarcerated individuals, the quilts raise and answer questions about the lives of prisoners. They are thoughtful objects, and they got to me. I hadn’t anticipated anything like that happening when I entered FWM’s doors. You never know when art will tug at your emotions.

Tapestries at Fabric Workshop And Museum
Tapestries at Fabric Workshop And Museum

Onward we went, exploring the exhibit of tapestries created by an assortment of artists. The tapestries occupied the galleries on two of FWM’s floors. I dug them all, even the ones with metaphorical intents (I’m a dumb shit when it comes to deciphering metaphors). Every one of the works looked great, and that’s what mattered to me.

Fully satisfied by the artworks at FWM, we exited the building and strolled around town for 45 minutes. At that point it was time to eat. So, we made our way to Bellini, an Italian restaurant we’d never been to before, and where we’d booked a reservation. Everything we consumed there that evening was delicious. I can’t say enough about my entree, a chicken dish with mushrooms, asparagus and a superb tomato/garlic/wine sauce. I didn’t snap photos of the foods. But, because I was so damned surprised to see that Bellini’s ceiling is muralled, I aimed my phone’s camera at it and pressed the button. Italianesque and tantalizing, the mural is a winner.

A portion of the ceiling at Bellini

Bellini resides on 16th Street in central Philadelphia. As does Monk’s Café. Monk’s is one of my favorite destinations, because it carries an insanely large number of Belgian beers, most of which you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else in the USA. Kind of a beer geek, I am intrigued and pleased by the high quality of many Belgian brews.

The beer I drank at Monk’s Cafe

Well, Sandy thought there was no chance we’d get into Monk’s, it being a Saturday night. But we lucked out. Although all the tables were filled, two adjacent seats at the bar were unoccupied. We grabbed them. On the recommendation of the guy directly to my right, I ordered a Belgian beer I’d never had before: Westmalle Dubbel, a dark brown and refreshingly dry creation. If there were a heaven, I’d want it to look like Monk’s and to possess Monk’s beer inventory. This place is the greatest.

I was pretty much floating on air as Sandy and I walked back to the station where our suburbs-bound train would arrive shortly. Our time in Philadelphia had seemed quite magical. It had been one of those special days, the kind that doesn’t come along all too often. I won’t forget it anytime soon.

Europe 2024, Part Two: Brussels

In my previous opus I mentioned that the Brussels leg of our recent trip to Europe didn’t turn out anywhere near as wonderfully as my wife Sandy and I had expected. But, shit, that’s the way the cookie crumbles sometimes. Life ain’t perfect, that’s for damn sure. Though I’d do anything but complain if it were.

We fully were expecting to dig Brussels, the capital of Belgium, a lot. Advance research had indicated to me there were quite a few museums, parks and neighborhoods worth investigating, and that the chances were good that we’d attend one or two concerts during the four full days of our stay.

Alas, we attended no concerts and didn’t see all that much of the city. Basically, we were thrown off our game. The bad cold that Sandy came down with had plenty to do with that. It bummed both of us out. And the on-and-off rain showers we encountered on several days were not exactly spirits-boosters.

A view of Grand Place.
A street in the old section of Brussels.

In the end, then, our explorations were limited substantially to the old, tourist-thronged, cobblestone-streets section of Brussels, whose hub is Grand Place, an imposing plaza. That old section looks similar to how it did long, long ago, and at times we had fun taking in the sights there. On one of its many narrow streets sits Choco Story museum, a place we’d put near the top of our things-we-want-to-see-in-Brussels list. So, after paying the admission fees, we embarked on a self-guided tour of the museum’s galleries.

Choco Story’s unpretentious layout appealed to me. Its exhibits explain the history of chocolate, a product first developed and enjoyed, as a beverage, by the Mayans and Aztecs. Solid chocolate, a European creation, made its appearance in the 1800s. I found all of this pretty interesting. And I became especially interested when I reached the end of the exhibits. For, lo and behold, I noticed a sign that said a chocolate-making demonstration was about to begin in the room just beyond the sign. Sandy and I wasted little time in sitting down on a bench in that room. Moments later, a chocolatier walked in.

The chocolatier at work.

Speaking in heavily French-accented English — though French, Dutch and German are Belgium’s official languages, I imagine he used English for the benefit of the museum’s largely non-Belgian clientele — the gentleman explained to the 20 or so folks in the audience the processes required to produce solid chocolates. Temperature control plays a big part. And, while talking a mile a minute with wit and confidence, he demonstrated each step of the operation. Voila! At the end of the show everyone lined up and grabbed a praline (the pralines he offered to us had been prepared earlier, to allow them to solidify properly). Belgium is famed for its chocolates. And, I’m pleased to say, the chocolatier’s creations didn’t let his nation down.

Choco Story wasn’t the best of the two museums we visited in Brussels, as it turned out. Not even close. That honor belongs to Musical Instruments Museum, commonly known as MIM. What a place! And not in the old part of town, either. I’d never seen anything like it. From the moment I began touring the premises, I was certain I was in a truly great museum.

Musical Instruments Museum.

Hundreds and hundreds — thousands? — of instruments fill MIM’s several floors of gallery space. They come from every corner of Planet Earth. Most, it seemed to me, date from the 16th to 20th centuries. And two are from 14,000 or more years ago: pierced animal bones used as whistles by our ancient relatives.

MIM’s cornucopia is meant to please more than our eyes. Our ears are blessed at the museum too, because recorded music performed on a goodly percentage of the instruments can be heard by entering designated code numbers on the headset device given to each museum visitor. Simply put, I was blown away. I listened to saxophone pieces, harmonica pieces, sitar pieces, you-name-it pieces. MIM, on its own, is not reason enough to pay a visit to Brussels. But it almost is.

I hate to be remiss. Which is why I’m going to mention one other aspect of the Brussels vacation that agreed with me well. I’m a bit of a beer geek. And, through reading, I’ve known for years that Belgium produces fine beers, most of which (save for beers made by Leffe, Stella Artois and a couple of other breweries) do not find their way to the USA, the nation I call home.

I’m happy to report that I downed delicious brews in Brussels, each of which I’d never heard of before. The majority of them entered my system at Bier Central, a cozy, handsome tavern whose food is very good. More to the point, its beer selection is out of this world. 366 beers, all of them from Belgium! If you’re a beer lover and ever find yourself in Bier Central, I recommend trying, among others, Floreffe Dubbel (made by Brasserie Lefebvre). It put a contented smile on my frigging face.

In conclusion, I regret not seeing more of Brussels than I did, and never getting a feel for the city. I had a good enough time there, though, to consider the visit a reasonably enjoyable one. And, here in the States, I’m now going to make it my mission to try and find some elusive Belgian beers. Cheers, skoal, bottoms up!