The City Of Brotherly Love At Night

As readers of Yeah, Another Blogger know, I do a fair amount of walking. Many of the walks take place in my suburban neighborhood, whose pavements I pound for 25 or 30 minutes per session in the hopes of maintaining a decent level of cardio fitness. I would describe those outings as meh, because suburbia ain’t exactly crammed with interesting things to look at.  

Pretty regularly, though, I head into Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA, which is close to my town, to walk for pleasure. There, sometimes by myself, sometimes with my friend Gene, I cover a bunch of miles, avidly checking out multitudes of this, that and the other thing, many of them fascinating. I never get tired of spending time in The City Of Brotherly Love.

Now, just about all of the Philadelphia hikes have been in daylight. So, when the notion popped into my head recently to stretch my legs extensively in Philly under darkened skies, I gave it the thumbs-up. After all, I hadn’t indulged in a lengthy nighttime stroll in the city since the one I wrote about in 2018.

Thus, on a balmy Tuesday evening earlier this month, I rode a train into central Philadelphia, and then spent two hours wandering all over the place. I took nearly five dozen pictures along the way. A selection of them illustrates this story.

A bit to my surprise, none of the city sections I visited were anything resembling deserted. The sidewalks weren’t crowded, but they were busy enough, with folks popping in and out of stores and eateries, going about their business in other ways, or just plain hanging out. Not bad for a Tuesday night. I was glad about all of that in terms of my personal safety, and also because it showed that the hard hits delivered by the COVID pandemic have been reversed substantially.

A group of locals on a Chinatown street corner.
The China Gate, in Philadelphia’s Chinatown section.

When it came to hanging out, nobody I saw that night did it any better than a group of folks chatting away on a street corner in Philly’s Chinatown neighborhood. I’d have liked to have walked right up to them and ask if it would be okay for me to take an ensemble portrait. But I’m a chickenshit when it comes to approaching strangers for photographic reasons. My loss, of course, as I’ve missed out on any number of revealing pix over the years. Nonetheless, I like the snapshot in which, from a distance, they appear. The mural on the side of the TeaDo tea house anchors that scene with pride. And I like even better the picture of The China Gate, the magnificent welcome-to-Chinatown arch that straddles 10th Street a block from where I blew my chance to get up-close and personal with the locals.

A guy on a blanket in Rittenhouse Square, one of Philadelphia’s best parks.

A similar situation presented itself an hour later in Rittenhouse Square, one of Philadelphia’s stellar parks, where a guy was seated on a blanket. He was as content as can be under tree branches that smiled down upon him lovingly. Once again, a close-up would have been cool. On the other hand, the park’s calm vibes wouldn’t have been as evident in a close-up as they are in the picture I took instead.

City Hall (left) and skyscrapers.
A block of Sansom Street, not far from City Hall.
Hard Rock Cafe, Philadelphia.

Calm vibes, in fact, filled the air everywhere I went. The city was quieter, more welcoming than it is during daylight hours. The semi-darkness helped bring that about, and I was under its spell. Hell, just about everything looked good to me. City Hall, smack dab in the middle of central Philadelphia, and the modern skyscrapers just beyond it dazzled in an understated manner. Streetlamps and store signs bathed narrow blocks, such as the Sansom Street corridor west of City Hall, gently and warmly. A giant guitar sculpture, lit up like a Christmas tree and hanging from the facade of Hard Rock Café, never looked better.

But all good things must come to an end. A few minutes after admiring the guitar I entered Jefferson Station, within which I hopped aboard the train that took me back to my little town. It had been a big night in the big city.

Yeah, long solo walks in stimulating places are my cup of tea. I live in the moment during these mini adventures, enjoying the heck out of being able to go here or there as I like, answerable to no one and curious to see what’s around the next corner. They make my cares and woes disappear, leaving me with a sense of freedom that normally I don’t experience all too deeply. Man, I’d be golden if I learned to incorporate that orientation much more fully into my everyday life. Will it ever happen? Well, . . .

Up Is Where It’s At: Philadelphia’s Elevated Parks

Central Philadelphia, as seen from Cira Green.

As loyal readers of this publication know, I have a propensity to mention that not only am I getting old, I strongly dislike getting old. I mean, what’s to like? I’m at the point where even if I were to live another 25 years, an unlikely occurrence that would take me deep into my 90s, the end sure as shit is still a whole lot closer than the beginning. Depressing, man, depressing.

Maybe that’s one of the reasons why I get a kick out of wandering around in search of that which is new to me. I tend to believe that a steady diet of fresh experiences possibly has the ability to hold back Father F*cking Time. In any event, encountering the new sure helps to keep your brain cells firing, to bring at least the semblance of a smile to your face, and to make most days decently bright. And so, off I went recently to a couple of places that I’d never visited before and was more than curious to investigate.

The Rail Park

I live not far from Philadelphia and head into that interesting city, which contains an almost endless supply of things to do, three or more times each month. On August 8, I decided that I’d go there to check out The Rail Park, which began as an idea in the early 2000s and became a reality when its first, and to-date only, section opened in 2018. Three more sections are on the drawing board. (If plans for the creation of those sections interest you, then feel free to click here to learn about them.)

Luckily I did a bit of googling before leaving the house, otherwise I’d not have known that another elevated park, Cira Green, occupies space in Philadelphia. As far as I know, The Rail Park and Cira Green are Philly’s only places with greenery that are up in the open air.

Close to central Philadelphia’s Chinatown section, The Rail Park was created by a partnership of forward-thinking area residents and governmental and private entities, and is built on what were abandoned, elevated Reading Railroad tracks. Those tracks once brought freight and passengers into and out of The City Of Brotherly Love. They were last used for those purposes in 1984.

And Cira Green? Well, unlike The Rail Park it’s not under city government’s oversight. It’s an entirely private enterprise, but everyone is welcome there. Its home is the roof of a parking garage that sits between two modern towers. (The two towers, the parking garage and Cira Green collectively are known as Cira Centre South.) Cira Green opened three years before The Rail Park did and rubs shoulders with The University Of Pennsylvania and with Drexel University in the enormous part of town known as West Philadelphia.

Cira Green

I took in Cira Green first. I rode the parking garage elevator to the 11th floor and then walked up a staircase that leads to the roof. Voila! Cira Green spread out before my eyes, one and a quarter acres of walkways, terraced lawns, shrub and flower beds, and a sprinkling of trees. There’s a burger and beer joint on the grounds too, and a big tent where organized events are held. Lawn chairs and chaise lounges were scattered around.

Central Philadelphia, as seen from Cira Green.

Cira Green is a solid piece of work, and dozens of people were there enjoying the sunny day. But it ain’t knock-your-socks-off beautiful. If it were on ground level it would be considered fairly pedestrian. But it’s not on ground level. One hundred and fifty or more feet above the streets, it provides a motherlode of fab views. Damn right I didn’t plop my ass into a chair or chaise lounge. What I did was walk all over the place, checking out those views.

West Philadelphia, as seen from Cira Green.
Cira Green. Reflections too.

Skyscraper-loaded central Philadelphia, across the murky Schuylkill River, gave me a buzz, as did West Philadelphia’s kaleidoscopic patterns, dominated by tans, browns and greys. But what I also couldn’t keep my eyes off of were the reflections in the facades of the two giant buildings flanking Cira Green. A person, such as I, could get lost in those reflections.

One public transit ride later, not to mention blocks and blocks of walking, I found the stairs that lead to The Rail Park. The park is in a gritty neighborhood that goes by various names, including Callowhill. Much of Callowhill went up in the 1800s. The area has an industrial look, which figures, because many factories once produced goods there. A few still do. Others have been converted to residential use. Parking lots are part of the landscape too, as is a dense array, too dizzying for me to digest, of other structures. The Rail Park was needed. It’s the only park in Callowhill, the only green refuge.

That’s The Rail Park up there.
The Rail Park

I liked The Rail Park. A mere 20 or thereabouts feet above street level, it doesn’t command the types of views that Cira Green does. But that was alright with me. As I walked back and forth along the park’s quarter of a mile length of planks and gravel paths, I looked here and I looked there, admiring the otherworldliness of the electric company substation very near the park and enjoying the neighborhood’s overall no-nonsense ambience.

The Rail Park
The Rail Park

The park’s plantings are pretty. The oversized swings struck me as a delightful touch. Basically, The Rail Park, at least during the moments I spent within it, was very welcoming. I felt comfortable and at home. If I lived in its vicinity I’d head over there now and then, book in hand, and find a comfortable perch on which to read.

One guy was doing exactly that. One young lady walked her dog. Two couples huddled, exchanging sweet nothings or something of that order. And a few folks of various ages, including an old guy, one of my peers, relaxed on the swings. Yeah, I definitely liked The Rail Park. I hope that Callowhill’s and Chinatown’s residents have come to embrace it, or will.

In closing, I tip my metaphorical hat to Philadelphia, a city that always has inspired me. Without Philadelphia, this website would be hurting for content. For real.

(As I almost always say, please don’t be shy about adding your comments or about sharing this story. Gracias.)

(If you click on any photo, a larger image will open in a separate window.)